Сказ о том, как Том Форд спас бренд Gucci от банкротства
Добавлена: 11.07.19
Парфюмы "Gucci Rush " и " Gucci Rush 2", созданные в годы "правления" Форда, до сих пор актуальны и успешны
Кажется, что такой титан мировой индустрии, как бренд Gucci был всегда на пике популярности. Действительно, начиная со времени основания итальянцем Гуччио Гуччи (Guccio Gucci) предприятия по созданию дорогих и высококлассных изделий из кожи в 20-х годах XX века и до конца 70-х этого же столетия дела бренда Gucci шли, как нельзя лучше. За этот период Домом моды были придуманы следующие «арт-объекты» моды, вошедшие в Пантеон истинного дизайна от кутюр: лоферы с пряжками, отсылающими к конной упряжи; чемоданы и сумки из крепкого материала канвас; платок-каре с необычно нежным цветочным принтом Gucci Flora, разработанный специально для Грейс Келли, а потом растиражированный для продажи; появление стильных сумочек с бамбуковой ручкой, которые сразу стали хитом продаж.
Общеизвестно, что многим Домам высокой моды помогает удержаться на финансовом плаву парфюмерия и Gucci решил не отставать от этой тенденции – начиная с 70-х годов Gucci начинает выпускать под своим лейблом первые духи марки - "Gucci №1". Далее были «Gucci № 7», «Gucci pour homme», «Eau de Gucci», «Gucci № 3», «Gucci Nobile», «L'Arte de Gucci». Сейчас почти все они сняты с производства, но редкие коллекционные экземпляры настоящие парфманьяки вылавливают на просторах Интернета.
Лейбл Gucci – яркий пример семейного бренда, история которого демонстрирует опасность перехода правления в неумелые руки наследников. Небольшой экскурсии в историю – основателем марки является бывший швейцар и настоящий мастер, умело создававший разные качественные кожаные изделия итальянец Гуччио Гуччи. У него было несколько сыновей, которым он передал свой бизнес. Старший из них – Альдо – из всей плеяды наследников Гуччи был наиболее успешным креативщиком и бизнесменом. Так, к примеру, именно Альдо предложил для максимальной "узнаваемости" бренда сделать, в качестве фирменного орнамента две перекрещенные литеры G, обозначающие инициалы основателя марки - Гуччио Гуччи.
Марка достигла своего расцвета в 70-е годы, но когда Альдо ушел на заслуженный отдых и Дом моды перешел к другому сыну основателя марки - Маурицио Гуччи, все резко изменилось в худшую сторону. Новый руководитель ввел ряд нелепых новшеств, которые довели некогда успешный бренд почти до банкротства. И оно бы состоялось, если бы не Том Форд, будущий создатель одного из самых успешных авторских брендов нишевой парфюмерии и автор ароматов "Черная орхидея" и многих других, ставших классикой, но это все в будущем, а в начале 90-х – это был начинающий и дерзкий дизайнер из Америки.
Менеджмент Gucci приняв на работу молодого американца Форда на пост руководителя линейки одежды не сильно рисковал: состояние дел бренда на тот момент было настолько печальным, что их вряд ли что-то могло сделать еще хуже. История некогда успешной марки явно клонилась к закату.
Но Том Форд, уловив дух времени первой половины 90-х годов – вызов, дерзость, расслабленный шик и секс – сразу же сделал коммерчески успешную коллекцию. После первого же показа одежды руководство бренда Gucci предложили Тому Форду взять на себя кураторство сразу нескольких направлений, среди которых была и парфюмерия.
Парфюмерия Gucci до Тома Форда, в самые лучшие годы своего существования - в 70-е - уже тогда славилась своей неординарностью. Но Том Форд смог вывести парфюм Gucci на другой, более масштабный, в плане продаж, уровень. Так, именно во "времена правления" Тома Форда был выпущен ставший мега-популярным восточно-ориентальный-древесный аромат для мужчин "Envy for Men". Созданием парфюмерной формулы занимался парфюмер Daniela Roche Andrier. В парфюм вошли такое количество компонентов, что создается впечатление, будто создателем парфюма было принято решение поразить воображение даже видавших виды любителей парфюмерии. Итак, в мужской парфюм "Envy for Men" вошли имбирь, махагони, мандарин, лаванда, кориандр, кардамон, перец, жасмин, гвоздика, сандал, роза, белый кеда, амбра, кожаные аккорды, мускус, пачули, ваниль, ветивер, табак и ладан. В результате соединения подобных противоречивых компонентов получился такой необычный парфюмерный микс, что парфюм после своего выхода сразу же стал бестселлером.
Потом Том Форд "благословил" на выпуск парфюм «Accenti» и парфюмерно-косметическую серию «Envy», но истинной сенсацией стал аромат "Gucci Rush", выпущенный в 1999 году, когда карьера Тома Форда в бренде Gucci была в самом зените и казалось, американец никогда не покинет этот бренд, привнося в него все новые и новые идеи, стили о образы. Но в 2004 году Том Форд ушел в свободное плавание, создав свою собственную марку, а Gucci, продолжая работать в русле, созданном Томом Фордом, покоряя ума, сердца и кошельки.
Но вернемся к пленительному аромату "Gucci Rush". "Gucci Rush" является ароматом просто фантастической судьбы, а как иначе скажешь, если при довольно несложной ароматической композиции парфюм сумел пленить такое количество покупательниц, многие из которых десятки лет остаются преданными этому аромату. Кроме того, " Gucci Rush" является одним из наиболее комплиментарных духов за всю историю современной парфюмерии - женщины отметили, что именно при использовании "Gucci Rush " они чаще всего получают комплименты.
В парфюмерную композицию "Gucci Rush" вошли калифорнийская гардения, африканская фрезия, персик, жасмин, кориандр, дамасская роза, ветивер, натуральная ваниль и пачули. Согласитесь, набор ингредиентов весьма впечатляющ и аромат, по идее должен быть резким и шипровым. Но его создатель - парфюмер Michel Almairac , являясь истинным мастером своего дела и разработал не банальный резкий аромат, а мягкий, обволакивающий и в то же время, "громкий" и дерзкий.
Росту популярности "Gucci Rush" поспособствовал и оригинальный дизайн флакона - никаких бантиков, завитков, будуарного или "мимимишного" оформления. Исключительный минимализм - строгая прямоугольная форма, красный моно-цвет и строгий шрифт названия. Флакон красив и на туалетном столике, и удобно носить в сумке - что еще надо активной и занятой женщине?
Далее, на волне популярности "Gucci Rush" был выпущен "Gucci Rush 2". Он также необыкновенно хорош и по ароматической композиции, и по стойкости, и по оформлению дизайна флакона. В результате и "Gucci Rush ", и "Gucci Rush 2" заняли достойное место в иерархии современной мировой люксовой парфюмерии и обогатили ее новыми нестандартными ароматическими и дизайнерскими решениями.
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